Iceland Log - Day 1 - : We Landed!
- Felicita Hawes

- Jan 31, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Dec 28, 2024
Day 1 of Icelandic travels of two sisters...what could go wrong?
Coffee Shops, wandering food tour through Reykjavik, car hiccups!

You look up hearing the static of the radio start the usual notification of the airline intercom, a heavy Nordic accent comes out - but mind you smooth English, "Good morning passengers, travelers and adventurers! We will begin our descent to Keflavik International Airport in 20 minutes. Please take your seats and ensure your seats are in the upright position and your things are stored away. Flight attendants will be checking shortly. Enjoy the descent and don't forget to look out your window!"
You look over at us two knuckle heads. Ani has the window seat clearly unimpressed by the clouds she sees. All of us have been trying to get what little sleep we can from this generous six-and-a-half-hour flight. I look over at you pulling out my knock off blue tooth headphones.
"Were you able to get any sleep?" I asked quietly. As if anyone around us was sleeping. Now everyone was getting antsy with anticipation at 3AM in the morning. You shrugged shaking your head.
I smiled, "It's okay, I couldn't fall asleep either" I chuckled adjusting my turtleneck sweater. A thin beige. Light enough to be breathable but kept me cozy and it was sophisticated. Black leggings and you betcha thick fuzzy socks and my hiking boots ready to go.
"Been a while since you've been back here, no?" I asked. You managed a small smile. It had been a while. We've both been busy since. Living our lives, and well I had been traveling. Today you get to join us on this adventure.
You glanced at my writing supplies as I placed my book away, Titled: This is How you Heal the tabs and sticky notes scattered in each chapter. My pen scribbles of thoughts interlinking highlighted sentences.
You notice the clouds begin to move and felt the plane begin its prolonged descent.
The lights glimmer into view off the coastline as you can see the major city which we are making out get-away to. But the plane veers off and the stretch of the singular long highway breaking through the stretch of barely uninhabited rocky dark coast. That singular highway connects the airport to Reykjavik.
As we exit the plane headed out, everything is already tourist friendly. Translated signs, bountiful arrow pointing lost travelers to the correct spot. Service agents stationed at pretty much every corner even at this hour. But following the crowd is about all we have the desire to do. Though the reality was Ani and I, we were in no rush at all.
It was December here; the sun would not come up for hours. So, we were prepared for the endless night. Yet that is what made this trip so unique. As we followed the signs to baggage claim what none of us were expecting was a trip to Nordic Style Willie Wonka's i.e. a massive gift shop focused solely on our sweet tooth temptations and love for good European chocolates, and all other assortments of treats. It was all based on an honor system. Individual check out kiosks were unmanned and there was no one watching either.
With time to kill we did wander. We were on vacation after all. Two sisters already debating what to get and take home for our family. We had so far managed to stave off any arguing or grumpiness. Which was wonderous since I had yet had my caffeine. But good things come to those who wait.
Exiting the shop though we made it to the exit point, which was also the drop off, gate check-in location for all flights... and somewhere was car rental.
It is here that you notice how small the international airport really is. Everything is within walking distance. You can see the other end of the main building from where you stand.
I rummage through my bag pulling out my folder of every printed copy reservation and instructions. I knew Iceland would have dead zones, so it was best to come prepared. Rental car was the first interesting task because though it was easy to find... we couldn't see our company amongst the classic Hertz, Enterprise, etc. Avis was nowhere to be found. To both our delight no one was at the counters either.
And two determined sisters were not about to ask for help. It was too early, and we were going to just figure it out. You eye us as our debate began and we just started to wander around the airport looking for this hidden pickup point mentioned. Needless to say, our single loop brought us right back to where we had started with a man holding a white board with a scribbled "Avis" on it.
His cheery nature despite the early hour relieved us both and he was immediately interested as to what we were going to do in Iceland. You sat in the crammed black van seeing the snow out in the dark expanse. It was hard to see once we got away from the airport. A 10 min drive brought us to the offsite rental car company nestled between freight containers, an abandoned building and a pothole filled parking lot crammed with cars in a pattern.
Ani eyed me already skeptical, you yourself also raised your eyebrows at me. But I was undeterred, this was a fucking adventure already, and I wanted out of the cold. Because it was 4 AM now and we chose to come to Iceland in the winter... and I despise being cold. I prefer to be warm, and cozy snuggled up in my blankets with something warm in hand. Bonus if someone is giving me a hug or Crackers is cuddled up next to me.
The second curveball hit us "We don't have a reservation for you" as I sat in the small white chair in front of the singular long office desk. You immediately internally cringe. You're in this new place. Stuck almost in the middle of no-where.... and the only means of transportation on this island is a car. Which our reservation isn't showing. I smile at you, and you smile back with a bit of ease. Ahh... but you see we came prepared, didn't we?
I gently pull out the copies beginning to speak to the manager politely, and just our luck we got an upgrade.
Now the real adventure begins.
After landing what could go wrong went wrong in one sister's mind. Yet is all somehow with a bit of luck and friendly smiles managed to snag a red rental car despite losing a reservation. Needless to say, we recharged our batteries (slept) in a parking garage as the morning city of Reykjavík began to softly come alive in the hours of pure morning darkness. This is when we began meandering the streets at 6 AM.
It was quiet here, no one was really out. The city center was now ours to explore, and we began to make mental notes of places we would return to visit if we could once they opened. The Christmas lights greeted us crisscrossing over between apartments and the sidewalks were all dry and the inner city to you felt warmer. You felt cozy here.
It was after a while we found ourselves walking into a small Nordic Coffee Shop open at this early hour. The white door led to chime of a bell and there was already a guest inside enjoy himself. You look down noticing a classic spin of black and white tiles. Along the large window are paper stars and lights decorating with the seasons spirits. Despite the cold the plants hanging from the ceiling are all green and lively.

It is here we settled at the natural soft wooden bar sitting on comfortable handmade stools where we enjoy our first gentle Icelandic coffee that warms us up. Getting us ready for our first planned experience.
Thor's Thunderous Food Tour
Thor held true to his name! His personality was a gentle but a grand one. Filled with stories and cultural knowledge that struck us away. The tour itself guided us to five different restaurants that gave us a breadth of local delicacies and one that in culinary terms used it as inspiration. From the oldest restaurant in town to a 5-star Michellene Restaurant.
Our favorite... was the hotdog stand. It's not a classic American Hot-Dog from New York or Chicago. It just had this flavor that I was not expecting to the point where we went and got seconds.
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Sadly, I cannot recall the first one... all the more reason to go back for a summer trip! Then we'll get to enjoy the sun and free wandering highland cows and Icelandic horses.
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Islendingar Borda

The Icelandic hot dog, locally known as pylsa or pulsa, is a popular immediate go-to-food in Iceland. Wether you are on the go- or really going to stay for lunch. Despite being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture with a "cult status" amongst locals and foreign travelers. Don't expect to sit down to eat, and do expect everyone to want to take photos of themselves munching away.
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FJALLKONAN

This restaurant is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the city. Aging all the way back to the Vikings when it had been the reception or entry building to the city for merchants, warlords, and mercenaries travelling from the sea. Today it offers a modernized twist on local delicacies sourced from local farms, and fisherman.
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Islenski Barinn
Fourth stop was one to remember because this is where those of us who were brave enough to try fermented shark came face to face with it. Placed in a tiny glass jar the small pieces really looked like a typical white yellow gummies. Except... for no we'll avoid that thought. Needless to say, drink the strong shot offered to you afterwards and if you need more than one glass, ask for a second, it's worth it. The cold paired with walking will wash the buzz right away when you walk out of the old refurbished cellar!
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Cafe Loki
Our final stop brought us to the highest point in the city finalizing our tour with a home style restaurant. Where the first two floors were packed with guests squeezed in small tables and the stairs rounded up in a steep rise to the third floor which held memories of the owner. The small kitchen and living area were where private groups were served, and the window overlooked the city scape. Our final delicacies were sweet and warm with our bellies full and smiles to share as we joked around the table.
Rounding out with the god of mischief, we took our time in the short hours of daylight. For soon it would get dark again and we'd be off to the cold dark waters of the sea.
You seem to have enjoyed yourself today. Hopefully you'll be back soon as we continue our trip through the winter wonders of this enchanting island. Who knows, maybe tonight you'll come chase the northern lights with us...
















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